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Bringing Sunscreen Into the Light: Ingredients, Cautions, and Smart Alternatives

EDITOR’S SUMMARY: This time last year, A Voice for Choice Advocacy published its first sun story—”An Exposé on Sunlight: Bathe, Avoid, or Find a Middle Ground?.” Both stories address receiving vitamin D directly from the sun, and each touches on various aspects of health benefits. Here, a deeper dive is taken into the realm of sunscreens, as well as other ways to maximize the sun’s offerings while protecting your skin from risks of overexposure. 

Nonchalantly bathing in sunlight for hours on end presents a double-edged sword. While the sun provides so many health benefits, and sporting a deep tan can be attractive, too much solar radiation poses risks to your skin. What complicates this relation further is the overreliance on sunscreens that may introduce harmful chemicals to your body, creating health concerns you never had in the first place. This tension between the benefits of sunlight, and potential harms of both overexposure and adverse sunscreen ingredients, demands a thoughtful exploration.

Beyond boosting your mood and enhancing your overall vitality, the sun fuels vitamin D, which has been shown to promote cell growth—imperative for maintaining your skin’s structure and function. It also supports your body’s ability to repair and regenerate damaged cells. Vitamin D plays a vital role in the metabolic, biochemical processes that occur within skin cells to maintain cellular function—all essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier. Yet, if you are not careful, too much sun can lead to premature skin aging, painful burns, and skin cancer.

Research has proven that sunlight is helpful in stabilizing and contributing to your physical and mental health. Sunlight and darkness play a key role in how your brain releases hormones. When you’re exposed to sunlight, your brain produces serotonin, a hormone known for boosting your mood, and helping you stay calm and focused. As night falls and it gets darker, your brain shifts to producing melatonin, the hormone that helps you sleep. Striking the right balance of sun exposure is essential for unlocking the full spectrum of health benefits. According to the National Library of Medicine, “Association Between Sunlight Exposure and Mental Health: Evidence from a Special Population Without Sunlight in Work”: 

“Humans may not survive healthily without sunlight. Along with facilitating sterilization and energy supply, sunlight provided protection against a wide range of diseases—not only physical diseases but also mental disorders.” 

In addition, patients who showed signs of skin damage and sun exposure had a 60% less chance of contracting melanoma. In a study from Marquette University, outdoor workers exposed to UV light were shown to have lower rates of melanoma when compared to indoor workers. These studies, along with countless others, are crucial in suggesting that the benefits of sun exposure to humans may outweigh the drawbacks. 

“Evidence has been presented that intermittent sunlight exposure is associated with an elevated melanoma risk, whereas chronic sunlight exposure is associated with decreased melanoma risk comparatively.” 

Given the significant benefits of sunlight on your body, it’s essential to approach sun protection thoroughly to maximize the rewards while minimizing the risks. As you soak up the sun’s rays and enjoy its many advantages, you still need to ensure your skin is protected, as too much can result in complications. Sunscreen can play a role in your protection plan, but not all sunscreens are created equal. Some promise broad-spectrum protection, while others boast that their minerals are safer. Understanding the differences is instrumental in caring for the health of your skin. 

Ultraviolet A radiation (UVA) is a type of ultraviolet radiation that has been shown to damage the skin over prolonged periods of time. UVA rays make up more than 95% of the UV rays that reach the Earth’s surface. Ultraviolet B radiation (UVB) is a type of invisible energy taken from the sun that can also cause skin issues when exposed to it for long periods of time. UVB radiation makes up about 5% of the sun’s UV rays. While both types of rays are integral in sustaining human life, too much sun can cause sunburn and other skin ailments. Sunscreen manufacturers claim that the primary purpose of sunscreen is to prevent premature aging, reduce sunburn, and protect against skin cancers. 

As you head into some of the hottest parts of summer depending on your location, it’s of vital importance to understand how to protect yourself without completely evading the sun. Conveniently reaching for sunscreens is popular way to shield yourself from the sun’s rays, yet there is ongoing debate between the two major types. Chemical and physical sunscreens are two primary defenses for protection against excessive sun exposure. Each comes with its own set of benefits and drawbacks, making it essential to delve deeper into their ingredients and impacts. 

chemical sunscreens health risks

Chemical Sunscreens

Chemical sunscreens are a popular choice due to their sheer, invisible application, as well as longtime consumer trust from the mainstream population. These sunscreens work by absorbing either Ultraviolet A radiation (UVA) or Ultraviolet B radiation (UVB) rays through a chemical reaction that converts the rays into heat that can be released from the body. Common ingredients found in chemical sunscreens include oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate. While intended to prevent overexposure to the sun’s UV rays, the negative buzz about these chemicals continues to grow. The potential side effects and environmental risks associated with the ingredients commonly found in chemical sunscreens highlight the need for careful consideration, and scrutiny of these sun protection products.

Oxybenzone has raised significant concerns. Studies have shown that oxybenzone can act as an endocrine disruptor, interfering with hormonal function, and possibly leading to developmental issues such as delayed growth, and problems with reproductive development. Additionally, it has been linked to allergic skin reactions and irritations. Oxybenzone poses environmental risks as well; it has been found to contribute to coral reef bleaching and degradation, prompting regions, including Hawaii, Aruba and Mexico (just to name a few), to ban sunscreens containing this chemical. 

Avobenzone offers protection from UVA rays, but it also comes at a cost. It does not protect against UVB rays, which is problematic, as it has to be combined with other questionable ingredients to protect against both. When this chemical breaks down on your skin, it can cause allergic reactions, like photocontact dermatitis and allergic contact dermatitis. Additionally, avobenzone has been linked to endocrine disruption, and has shown the potential to inhibit testosterone effects in cellular studies.

Octinoxate,also known as octyl-methoxycinnamate, is a common ingredient in sunscreens and other cosmetic products. While its safety for human use remains uncertain due to limited research, it has been shown to cause dermatitis, affect hormones, and have an impact on the nervous system. This chemical alters the release of neurotransmitters, which help chemical messengers transmit signals between nerve cells, a crucial step in overall nervous system function.

According to the Journal of American Medical Association, “Effect of Sunscreen Application Under Maximal Use Conditions on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients”: A randomized clinical trial revealed that four [sunscreen chemicals] (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and ecamsule) are absorbed into the bloodstream at significantly greater levels than 0.5 nanograms per milliliter (ng/mL). That’s far above the amount at which the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requires topical medications to undergo safety studies to determine possible toxic effects. In addition, spray sunscreens can increase the risk of inhaling harmful chemicals. From Livestrong, “How Bad Is It Really to Use Spray Sunscreen?”:

“There is a possibility of lung irritation, which may trigger allergies or asthma,” board certified dermatologist Dr. Salyards says. “Titanium dioxide specifically may be toxic when inhaled.”

Physical Sunscreens

Physical sunscreens, alternatively known as mineral sunscreens or sunblock, work differently than chemical sunscreens. According to board-certified dermatologist Divya Shokeen, “Physical sunscreens primarily work by creating a physical barrier that reflects and scatters UV rays away from the skin’s surface,” she explains. “Chemical filters absorb the sun’s rays, deflecting their damage by turning them into heat.” Physical sunscreens, unlike chemical sunscreens, begin working immediately upon application. There is no “waiting period” for the lotion to be absorbed into your skin. But, as with any skin product, the pros and cons are to be considered. 

There are two main types of physical sunscreens: 1. Titanium dioxide is a white, inorganic compound that has been used worldwide for over a hundred years. With a multitude of uses, from paints and plastics to pharmaceuticals and sunblocks, its diverse applications are endless. According to the Titanium Dioxide Manufacturers Association (TDMA), “As a sunscreen, ultra-fine TiO2 [titanium dioxide] is used because of its transparency and UV-absorbing abilities.” Titanium dioxide sunscreen has been touted as the “safer” way to manage overexposure to the sun’s rays, but there are many concerns about applying this product to your skin. The nanoparticles in titanium dioxide, although deemed safe by the FDA, remain controversial. Free radical cellular damage may occur, accelerating skin aging, and increasing the risk of skin issues and inflammation. According to the European Commision of Health, “Sunscreens with titanium dioxide as nanoparticles Health risks?”: 

“Titanium dioxide nanoparticles can also act, in certain cases, as a photocatalyst. This means that they can react with UV light (e.g. sun) to accelerate a photoreaction causing oxidation of some biological molecules and generating free radicals.”  

2. Zinc oxide is a fine white substance made from the mineral, zincite. Like its equivalent, titanium dioxide, a thin layer applied over the skin reflects both UVA and UVB sun rays, helping to lower your chances of sunburn and sun damage. As with titanium dioxide and chemical sunscreens, zinc oxide also comes with a downside. Because of this, it is important to always wash your sunscreen off after use. According to a collaborative study that included scientists at Oregon State University with findings published in Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences:  

“Sunscreen that includes zinc oxide, a common ingredient, loses much of its effectiveness and becomes toxic after two hours of exposure to ultraviolet radiation.” 

Absorbing Zinc Oxide into your skin also presents the risk of exposure to nanoparticles (nano-ZnOs). Upon digging into articles on the subject, most tout non-harm to humans. However, according to research studies, that is not the whole picture. Ongoing experimentation is needed; this is definitely something to keep on top of—particularly in relation to oxidative stress. From PLoS One, “Effects of Long-Term Exposure to Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles on Development, Zinc Metabolism and Biodistribution of Minerals (Zn, Fe, Cu, Mn) in Mice”:

“As for the popular application of nano-ZnOs, the human is commonly exposed to such nanoparticles. It is an emerging need to investigate the toxicity of nano-ZnOs, which can easily enter cells and introduce oxidative stress, although it has been reported that nano-ZnOs exhibited high biocompatibility with human cells and high selectivity. Some studies have been conducted to investigate the short term effects of nano-ZnOs in vitro and vivo. After an exposure of 0.5h to 72h, nano-ZnOs could cause acute cytotoxicity on various cell types, such as human epidermal cells, liver and retinal cells and white blood cells via interfering with zinc ion homeostasis or inducing oxidative stress.”

Also, combining sunscreens (which often occurs to heighten sun protection) can have negative effects. From “What’s the Deal with Sunscreen Mixing?” 

“… combining chemical sunscreens with mineral ones (that contain zinc oxide) decreased the barrier or protection they offer by up to 91%. The chemical reactions between the two types may also cause the product to become infective after only two hours of UV exposure.”

One study suggests that zinc oxide particles could be damaging to aquatic ecosystems. From Royal Society of Chemistry, “A critical review on the toxicity regulation and ecological risks of zinc oxide nanoparticles to plants”:

“The continuous accumulation of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) in the environment poses a potential threat to ecological security due to their unique physical and chemical properties.”   

Then there’s the issue with benzene, a carcinogenic substance found primarily in sunscreen sprays (chemical and physical), however, lotions and gels are not exempt from this volatile liquid. Aerosols are particularly troublesome, as particles can be inhaled in addition to absorbed into your skin. Short-term exposure is linked to headaches, dizziness, and death. Long-term exposure is associated with leukemia, and other serious health conditions. While the FDA prohibits brands from intentionally adding benzene to their products, that alone is not enough. From the Environmental Working Group (EWG), “Beware of benzene: Shining a light on sunscreen spray contamination,” the FDA’s “failure to act” reveals the following: 

“In May 2021, an independent laboratory published a chemical analysis of 294 batches of sunscreen and after-sun care products from 69 brands. According to the lab, 27 percent of the batches had detectable concentrations of benzene, which is restricted by the FDA for use in sunscreen products because of its “unacceptable toxicity.”

The lab petitioned the FDA to recall 78 contaminated batches of affected products, including 40 batches with urgency, due to contamination with especially high levels of benzene. The researchers also called on the agency to investigate the cause of contamination and establish protocols to prevent it in the future. 

Among the 10 brands with highest concentrations of benzene in their products, only Aveeno, Neutrogena and Coppertone have issued recalls. CVS halted sales of two highly contaminated products but did not issue a recall. The remaining 11 brands with sunscreens contaminated by lower levels of benzene continue to sell their products.

In July 2021, Johnson & Johnson, which owns Aveeno and Neutrogena, issued a recall for specific aerosol sunscreens, even though it said daily exposure to their contaminated sunscreen ‘“would not be expected to cause adverse health consequences.”’

are physical sunscreens harmful

Other Ways to Relish the Sun’s Healing Attributes

With unending questions and concerns regarding chemical sunscreens and mineral sunblocks, along with differences of opinions, knowing you have other options may come as a relief. Safer sun protection options are readily available and easy to use, making them effective alternatives to traditional cream, gel, or spray sunscreens.  

Gradual Sun Exposure: Embracing a gradual tan can be a worthwhile way to prevent overexposure to the sun. Seasons naturally offer a gentle increase in sun exposure as they shift, but today’s modern indoor lifestyle makes progressive sunbathing more challenging, and can also lead to deficiency in vitamin D. Spending short amounts of time in the sun all year round can help naturally tan your skin, offering a protection from sunburn during the hottest parts of the summer. 

The sun’s strength is determined by the UV Index—ultraviolet radiation level—which fluctuates based on factors such as the ozone layer, latitude, time of year, altitude, cloud cover, and time of day. Additionally, water, sand, and snow can amplify UV exposure by reflecting the rays. It’s important to start with short, daily sun sessions tailored to your skin type (there are six), and the UV index to harness the sun’s benefits safely. Gradual exposure helps your skin build its natural defenses and prevents overstimulation of the melanocytic cells, paving the way for a healthy glow. From Dr. Mercola’s “Vitamin D Resource Page”:

“The best time to expose yourself to the sun is as near to solar noon as possible (during Daylight Saving Time, solar noon is typically around 1:00 pm). UVB rays, unlike UVA rays that are present all throughout the day, are very low in the morning and evening, and are abundant during midday—approximately 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. Expose yourself to direct sunlight between these times for a short period, and you will have produced the most vitamin D3.”

Sun Protection Clothing: Similar to SPF (Sun Protection Factor), UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) measures the amount of UV radiation that can reach your skin through fabric. UPF measures both UVB and UVA. Different types of fabric offer different levels of protection. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, the composition of your fabric is very important. Unbleached cotton, and especially linen, contain natural materials that act as UV absorbers, ultimately offering a higher protection against UV damage. Shiny polyesters and even lightweight satiny silks can also be highly protective because they reflect radiation. Avoid tight and light colored clothing, both of which allow more UV light to pass through to your skin. When you know you need to spend hours in the sun, covering up may be the best option, especially if you have already had a healthy dose of sunlight for the day. 

Some fabrics offer ratings listed on the clothing item. A UPF rating of 40 or higher offers adequate coverage. If you aren’t sure, choose darker, dense fabrics, and cover as much skin as possible. UPF rating 15 gives minimum protection (effective UV transmission: 6.7%). UPF rating 30 provides good protection (effective UV transmission: 3.3%). UPF rating 50+ gives excellent protection (effective UV transmission: 2.0%).

Anti-inflammatory Foods: A diverse diet filled with organic foods, particularly fruits, vegetables, and high-quality meats, has been shown to increase your overall health. But now you can add protection against cancer, sunburn, and premature skin aging to your repertoire of positive benefits from consuming whole, nutrient-dense foods only. A recent study, “Potential Benefits of Omega-3 Fatty Acids in Non-Melanoma Skin Cancer” states:

“… there is considerable evidence that omega-3 FA supplementation might be beneficial in reducing the occurrence of NMSC [non-melanoma skin cancer], especially in those individuals who are at highest risk.” 

Omega-3 fatty acids can be found in monounsaturated fats, including wild salmon, sardines, mackerel, hemp, and chia seeds. Eating pasture-raised pork, and organic avocados and extra virgin olive oil are also particularly beneficial to protect against photoaging. Additionally, protecting your skin against inflammation will contribute to overall healthier skin. Avoiding grains, which have been proven to cause inflammation, and omega-6 oils, will reduce inflammation throughout your body, in turn decreasing your skin’s reaction to overexposure of the sun. According to Dr. Cathryn Erickson, author and functional medicine doctor, “Omega-6 metabolism leads to the production of a pro-inflammatory acid in our bodies. Thisincrease in inflammation can cause symptoms like joint pain, fatigue, and skin rashes.”

Topical Plant Oils: A balance of gradual sunlight, a diverse healthy diet, and protective clothing when in the sun for prolonged periods of time can all be helpful sun management. Coupled with these alternatives to traditional sunscreens, the use of plant oils has been examined as a way to limit chemical lotions and creams. According to a study in the Journal of Young Pharmacists, researchers found that calendula oil can be used to protect the skin from UV radiation with an SPF of around 15. 

Red raspberry seed oil has also been shown to offer some properties that are beneficial to the skin. It does provide some UV protection, absorbing UVB and UVA sun rays. But since it doesn’t provide full protection, you wouldn’t want to use it alone when spending long amounts of time outdoors. Red raspberry oil can work effectively for other skin impairments too, such as eczema and psoriasis, and can encourage healthy skin cell growth and regeneration.

In Conclusion

The sun is a friendly companion you can rely on each day to rise at dawn, and drop beneath the sky at evening dusk. If you’re a sun worshipper, you may consider her an ally that greets you in the morning with warmth and light. It’s not a stretch to say that sunshine can brighten your mood, and breathe life into your body and soul. The golden rays may lift your spirit, inspire a sense of adventure, and create lasting memories of sun-drenched summer afternoons. Taking in sunshine first thing in the morning has an array of benefits, such as helping to regulate sleep patterns and circadian rhythm, positively fueling your emotions, and boosting your production of serotonin. 

Consider eating breakfast (or drinking your first glass of water) outdoors, dropping into a yoga pose, stretching, meditating, and/or taking your pooch for a walk. “View morning sun” is a term coined by neuroscientist, Andrew Huberman, Ph.D. He considers this act (facing toward the sun in the morning but not looking directly at it) “in the top five of all actions that support mental health, physical health and performance.” Absorbing morning sun has a positive effect on your cortisol. From “9 benefits of sunlight in the morning and how to get it”: 

“Getting outside in the morning isn’t just about the light – it’s also about moving your body. Going for a walk or doing some exercise is like giving your body a wake-up call. It boosts cortisol, a natural energy booster. So, not only do you get to enjoy the great outdoors, but you also get a little extra pep in your step!”

Instead of simply slathering on sunscreen and heading outdoors, consider how you engage with the sun. Opt for physical barriers like clothing, and seek shade when your time in the sun is extended. If you are convinced using sunscreen is the way to go, choose wisely, and seek to understand the ingredients it contains. The key isn’t to fear the sun, but to respect it. By consciously navigating the fine line between sun exposure and protection, you can enjoy the remaining summer sun without sacrificing your skin’s long-term health.  

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Published on August 29, 2024.

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