By Sarah Campise Hallier
EDITOR’S SUMMARY: An examination of the substances and processes behind modern nail care, tracing how common products expose users, salon workers and the environment to solvents, plasticizers and hormone-disrupting compounds. It questions the assumption that familiar nail care practices are automatically safe and outlines practical ways to reduce exposure without abandoning personal care.
People have been tending to their nails for thousands of years. Ancient Egyptians tinted theirs with henna. Chinese dynasties used early lacquers made from hardened sap and beeswax. Victorian women polished with powders and oils long before modern salons existed. Nail care has always been a mix of grooming and personal expression. Over time, the scent of polish remover and the sting of acetone have become familiar sensory markers of maintenance, preparation and change.
Today, the ritual remains much the same. Getting a fresh coat of polish may serve as a small act of self-care, a way to look composed when life feels anything but. Whether you paint your nails regularly or on occasion, the practice offers a familiar comfort. Yet beneath this long-standing tradition lies a chemical reality that is often overlooked. Each bottle, pad and brush is part of a multibillion-dollar beauty industry that relies on solvents, plastics and resins, which are associated with respiratory irritation, hormone disruption and environmental contamination. What gives polish its smooth finish and staying power is often the same chemistry that raises health concerns.
These ingredients don’t remain confined to the nail. As polish dries, vapors are inhaled and compounds are absorbed through the nail bed, before residues are washed down the drain and persist in water and soil. Exposure is even greater for salon technicians, who spend their days breathing fumes and fine dust. Understanding what these products are made of is the first step toward making informed choices. Here’s how the most popular nail products can affect your body and the air and surfaces around them.
What Goes Into Nail Care Products
Nail polish
Conventional polish relies on a set of problematic chemicals. The main offenders, often referred to as the “toxic trio,” are formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate (DBP). Formaldehyde, used as a hardening agent, is classified as a known human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer and is cited by the American Cancer Society as a cancer-linked chemical. It is also associated with eye, nose and throat irritation even at low levels. In nail products, it reacts with keratin in the nail plate to improve durability, while releasing fumes that can irritate airways and exacerbate asthma-like symptoms.
Toluene gives polish its smooth, even texture, but it is a potent solvent that affects the central nervous system. Chronic exposure, particularly in poorly ventilated salon environments, has been linked to headaches, dizziness and fatigue, while prenatal exposure has been associated with developmental toxicity. Dibutyl phthalate helps prevent polish from becoming brittle, but it acts as an endocrine disruptor, meaning it can interfere with your body’s hormonal balance. Phthalates have been shown to interact with estrogen and other hormone receptors, disrupting reproductive and thyroid function. These effects raise particular concern for pregnant women and adolescents, whose hormonal systems are actively developing or undergoing heightened regulation.
Some brands have swapped dibutyl phthalate for triphenyl phosphate (TPHP), a plasticizer that serves a similar function without eliminating endocrine-related risk. Once absorbed, TPHP interacts with hormonal pathways involved in metabolism and reproduction. Other compounds, including xylene, formaldehyde resin, camphor, and benzophenone-1, further contribute to cumulative exposure. A Duke University–led study published in Environment International, “Nail polish as a source of exposure to triphenyl phosphate,” found that TPHP is absorbed through the skin within hours of application.
“It is very troubling that nail polish being marketed to women and teenage girls contains a suspected endocrine disruptor,” said Johanna Congleton, Ph.D., MSPH, a senior scientist at the Environmental Working Group (EWG) and co-author of the Duke-EWG study. “It is even more troubling to learn that their bodies absorb this chemical relatively quickly after they apply a coat of polish.”
Choose safer options: Look for “ten-free” or water-based polishes that exclude formaldehyde, toluene, DBP and TPHP. Cross-check ingredient claims using independent databases such as the EWG. These formulas tend to reduce solvent exposure and minimize nail plate dehydration during use.
Gel polish and curing lamps
Gel manicures are popular for their gloss and durability, but their chemical composition raises serious concerns. Gel products rely on methacrylate compounds such as HEMA and EMA. These compounds are potent sensitizers, meaning repeated exposure can trigger allergic contact dermatitis, skin irritation, and immune reactions that often worsen over time rather than resolve. Some products also contain methyl methacrylate (MMA), which is banned by the FDA for use in cosmetic nail products in the United States and restricted in the European Union and other regions.
MMA remains widely used in industrial applications, including acrylic plastics, dental prosthetics, and bone cement, which is why it continues to be manufactured and may still appear in nail products. Exposure has been linked to severe allergic reactions and nail bed burns. Because it may be listed under alternative names such as “methacrylate monomer,” “acrylic monomer,” or vague proprietary blends, its presence is not necessarily obvious on product labels.
The curing process adds another layer of risk. Gel polish must be hardened under ultraviolet (UV) or LED lamps, exposing the skin to concentrated UVA light capable of penetrating the skin and generating free radicals—unstable molecules that disrupt normal cellular function. A 2023 University of California San Diego study, “DNA damage and somatic mutations in mammalian cells after irradiation with a nail polish dryer,” found that exposure to this light caused DNA mutations in human and mouse cells similar to those associated with skin cancers.
Choose safer options: If gel polish is used, treat curing lamps as a source of unavoidable exposure rather than a benign step. LED lamps generally require shorter curing times and emit lower levels of UVA than traditional UV lamps, which may reduce overall intensity but does not eliminate risk. Limiting the frequency of gel manicures remains one of the most effective ways to reduce cumulative dose.
Acrylic nails and dip powders
Acrylic nails rely on liquid monomers combined with polymer powders to create rigid, long-lasting extensions. One of the primary chemicals of concern is MMA, discussed earlier for its significant safety risks. MMA forms extremely hard bonds that can damage the natural nail and release fumes known to irritate the skin, eyes and respiratory tract. Application and removal also generate airborne dust and prolonged close-range exposure, increasing inhalation and skin contact during salon services. For technicians and clients alike, minimizing skin contact and ensuring proper airflow remain critical.
When these compounds vaporize, they form volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that degrade indoor air quality and contribute to broader air pollution. Dip systems, Dip systems, which involve brushing on a resin and repeatedly dipping the nail into colored powder to build thickness and durability, rely on acrylate polymers and cyanoacrylate adhesives, similar to those used in industrial superglues. These materials release fumes that can irritate the eyes and airways and cause dermatitis with repeated contact.
Choose safer options: Avoid acrylic or dip systems that list MMA. Look for odor-reduced or clearly labeled “MMA-free” products, and ensure adequate ventilation during application to limit inhalation exposure.
Nail polish removers and prep products
Acetone is highly effective at removing polish, but it is also extremely drying. It dissolves the lipids that protect the nail plate, leaving nails weakened and prone to peeling. Because it evaporates rapidly, acetone concentrates chemical vapors in the breathing zone during use, particularly in enclosed or poorly ventilated spaces. Repeated exposure can irritate the eyes, nose, throat and lungs, especially when removers are used frequently.
Non-acetone removers often rely on ethyl acetate or butyl acetate, which still release chemical vapors capable of irritating mucous membranes. Nail primers and dehydrators commonly contain methacrylic acid or alcohol-based solvents, both of which can strip moisture, damage surrounding skin and further weaken the nail over time.
Choose safer options: Consider soy-based (organic or non-GMO) or plant-derived removers, which tend to be less drying than acetone formulas. Use them in a location with good airflow, and follow with nourishing oils to help restore moisture to the nails and surrounding skin.
Cuticle creams, nail oils, and hand lotions
Even products designed to soothe and hydrate the skin can bring biologically active and fragrance-related chemicals into contact with your body. Many creams and oils rely on parabens as preservatives and phthalates or synthetic fragrance for scent. Parabens can interfere with hormone signaling and have been detected in human tissue, while phthalates and synthetic fragrances are associated with altered hormonal activity, including suppressed testosterone production.
These compounds are readily absorbed through the skin and tend to accumulate in fatty tissue, where they can persist over time and slowly re-enter circulation. This means low-level exposure can continue even when use is occasional. Fragrance adds another layer of concern. Often listed without specific ingredients, it may contain dozens of undisclosed chemicals, many of which irritate the respiratory system and contribute to indoor VOC buildup from polish, removers and curing products.
Choose safer options: Opt for fragrance-free blends or single-ingredient oils such as jojoba, argan or vitamin E, choosing organic when possible. Independent verification programs, including EWG’s curated product lists, can help identify moisturizers without added synthetic preservatives or fragrance blends.
From Personal Use to Shared Exposure
The salon worker view
Behind every nail care service is a technician who spends hours each day working amid fumes from solvents, resins and adhesives. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has documented elevated levels of chemicals such as benzene, formaldehyde and toluene in salon air, which are associated with respiratory irritation, headaches, hormonal effects and longer-term health concerns. For workers, this exposure does not occur all at once. It accumulates gradually across enclosed spaces, repeated shifts and years on the job, making ventilation and ingredient awareness especially important in professional settings.
In response, many states, including California, have passed regulations that establish minimum ventilation standards, restrict certain chemical uses, and require clearer product labeling to reduce occupational risk. These measures are a start, but enforcement varies, and not all salons have invested in the equipment or training needed to meet updated requirements.
Ventilation systems, local exhaust vents, and lower-toxicity product lines can significantly reduce airborne exposure, yet many salons still lack these protections. When deciding where to book an appointment, small observations matter. A sharp chemical smell, poor airflow or the absence of visible ventilation can signal higher risk. Supporting salons that prioritize clean air and safer practices helps protect the workers who spend their days working under these conditions.
The environmental toll
The footprint of modern nail care extends far beyond the point of use. Many cosmetic chemicals used in nail products—from solvents and film-formers to plasticizers—are part of a broader pattern of persistent ingredients that can enter the environment when products and packaging are discarded through ordinary trash or drains rather than handled as hazardous waste. Once released, these compounds often resist breakdown, accumulating over time and contributing to pollution and ecosystem disruption. Sustainable Earth notes that the beauty industry’s synthetic ingredients and packaging waste add to long-term environmental impacts, with materials persisting in ecosystems and harming biodiversity.
Nail polish chips and cosmetic glitter add another layer of impact by releasing microplastics into the environment. These particles attract and concentrate toxins, are consumed by fish and wildlife, and ultimately move back up the food chain. The European Commission has banned intentionally added microplastics in cosmetics, including nail glitter.
In California, lawmakers advanced AB 823, a bill aimed at banning plastic glitter and microbeads in leave-on personal-care products, but the measure ultimately failed, leaving a significant regulatory gap. For the nail care industry, this leaves a clear choice: continue relying on plastic-based materials and persistent chemicals, or transition toward biodegradable alternatives and safer disposal practices that reduce long-term environmental harm.
A More Considered Approach to Nail Care
There are ways to care for your nails and maintain creative expression while reducing unnecessary chemical exposure. Press-on nails, for example, have evolved far beyond their drugstore reputation. Modern versions use medical-grade adhesive tabs or glues that avoid MMA and formaldehyde resin entirely. While they are not a “natural” option—they still rely on plastics and adhesives—applying them at home allows you to bypass prolonged salon exposure, making them a practical compromise rather than a perfect fix. Reusable nail wraps made from biodegradable materials offer shine and pattern with no dry time or acetone removal. They peel off cleanly and leave no residue, helping limit the solvents typically involved in polish application and removal.
For color, breathable polishes made with water-based resins allow oxygen and moisture to pass through your nail plate, which may reduce brittleness. Some brands also use plant-based solvents derived from corn or sugarcane instead of petrochemicals. Research on water-based mixtures suggests lower VOC emissions, though durability remains a limitation. Salon choice matters as well. “Clean beauty” studios that carry third-party verified lines and invest in proper ventilation can significantly limit what lingers in the air during services. Supporting these spaces not only protects personal health but helps push the industry toward safer standards.
Health food stores and natural beauty retailers now carry nail products that extend this approach. Look for polishes labeled water-based, non-toxic, or “free-from,” and check ingredient lists for the absence of common solvents such as toluene, formaldehyde and phthalates. Shorter ingredient lists, transparent sourcing and independent certifications can help cut through marketing claims. Many natural lines are sold through co-ops, independent apothecaries, and direct-to-consumer brands that publish full ingredient disclosures and manufacturing standards.
The final coat
Centuries ago, people reached for henna and oils to feel and look their best. That impulse remains. What has changed is the ability to choose products and practices with a clearer understanding of their impact. Nail care isn’t going anywhere, but the ingredients behind it deserve closer scrutiny. Much of modern nail culture rests on chemical formulations that extend beyond the nail itself, moving into indoor air, water systems and the body. Awareness shifts that equation. Small, informed choices—about products, environments and frequency—allow personal rituals to continue without unnecessary chemical burden, moving beauty toward a safer, more intentional standard.
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Published on January 15, 2026.
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